A reference for every task the schedule can issue, grouped by phase, season and problem. Open an entry for its window in both hemispheres, the amounts, the how and its sources.
In heat, raise the height to 5–6 cm — taller grass shades the roots and holds moisture.
Raise the deck to 5–6 cm and never take more than a third of the blade in one pass. Repeat every 7–10 days through summer.
Put drainage in before topsoil goes back — retro-fitting it under an established lawn means tearing the lawn up again.
Coarse regrade to a gentle, even fall first — no dips that pond water, no bumps the mower will scalp.
Terracing or a retaining wall stops soil and seed washing off a steep slope before the lawn can hold it.
Haul off rubble, broken concrete and buried waste — new roots can't grow through builder's debris.
Remove rubble, stones, and roots, and loosen ground compacted by machinery before anything else.
Machinery packs the ground hard after building. Rip or dig deep so water and roots can get down.
Break up compacted soil so roots have room to grow.
Post-build ground is usually subsoil. Add good screened topsoil so grass has something to grow in.
Grass likes pH 6.0–7.0. Correcting it now is easier than later.
Raking it level now decides whether you get a flat lawn or 'waves'.
Phosphorus drives root development in young grass.
Rake out thatch and moss aggressively in two directions to open up the tired lawn.
Settles the bed so seed sits evenly — it doesn't compact, just levels.
Pull cores to relieve compaction so air, water and new seed reach the roots.
Sow lengthwise then crosswise for even density, no stripes or patches. Best sown in early autumn or spring — avoid peak summer heat and hard frost so the seed can germinate.
Sow fresh seed into the holes and thin spots — best in early autumn or spring, avoid peak heat.
Lightly rake so the seed goes 0.5–1 cm deep, then roll for better soil contact.
A thin topdressing protects the new seed and smooths the surface — don't bury the grass.
New seed must stay CONSTANTLY moist for 3–4 weeks or it fails. A weekend plot needs a timer or sod.
When grass reaches ~8–10 cm, mow to 5–6 cm with a SHARP blade so it doesn't tear young blades.
Lay rolls tight with staggered seams (like bricks), no gaps or overlaps, on moist, raked soil.
Roll lightly so roots touch the soil — good contact is what lets the sod root in.
Keep sod and the soil beneath constantly moist for ~2 weeks until it knits down — don't let edges dry out.
Once it resists a gentle tug (~2–3 weeks), mow with a sharp blade — take only the top third.
If the test was outside 6.0–7.0, work lime (raises pH) or sulfur (lowers it) into the topsoil now — far more effective than dusting the surface after the lawn is in.
A former field or weedy plot is full of weed seed. Water the bare, level soil for 1–2 weeks to sprout that seed, then kill the flush before you plant — so the new grass doesn't lose the race to weeds.
New grass needs steady moisture for weeks. Put a sprinkler and timer in place now — essential on a weekend plot you can't hand-water daily.
Rake leaves, twigs, and debris with a fan rake — gently.
Once the grass starts growing, mow to 4–5 cm and collect the clippings.
Wakes the lawn, building density and green color.
A thick lawn is the best weed control. In early spring overseed thin spots, mow a touch higher and feed so the grass crowds out broadleaf weeds and annual meadow-grass (Poa annua) before they get going. A pre-emergent product is optional and secondary — density comes first.
If crabgrass and other annual grassy weeds were a problem last year, a pre-emergent applied BEFORE they germinate (early spring, as soil warms toward ~13 °C / forsythia bloom) stops them. ⚠️ It forms a seed barrier that ALSO blocks new lawn seed — do NOT use it the same spring you overseed; pick one.
Stop summer annual weeds before warm-season green-up — apply once soil hits ~10–13 °C. Do NOT seed in the same window: a pre-emergent blocks grass seed too.
Pulls out thatch and moss (do it in two directions). The lawn comes back denser in a few weeks.
Spiking the soil lets air and water reach the roots — important on compacted ground.
Reseed bare or thin spots — ideal right after scarifying.
Kills dandelion and clover without harming the grass. As needed.
Iron suppresses moss and deepens the green — but it only treats the SYMPTOM. Moss thrives where grass is weak: acidic soil (test pH, lime if low), shade, and compacted/poorly-drained ground. Fix those and reseed the thin grass, or the moss returns every year.
Once growth picks up in mid-spring, mow weekly to 4–5 cm — start right after the first cut, don't wait for May. The 1/3 rule: never remove more than a third at once.
Once the lawn is ~50% green, mow low and rake out the brown winter thatch so light reaches the crowns and green-up speeds up. Bag the clippings.
Feed only once the lawn is fully, evenly green — a balanced feed wakes warm-season growth without feeding weeds on a half-dormant lawn.
Warm-season grass roots in warm soil — late spring to early summer is THE establishment window (the opposite of cool-season autumn). Keep newly seeded areas constantly moist for 2–3 weeks.
In heat, raise the height to 5–6 cm — taller grass shades the roots and holds moisture.
Deep and infrequent in the morning drives roots down. Avoid evenings (moisture = fungus).
For crabgrass that got through, treat it while it's young (a few tillers) in early summer with a selective grassy-weed herbicide — mature plants shrug it off. Best paired with thickening the lawn so gaps don't reopen.
Keeps nutrition steady without stress. Don't fertilize in intense heat.
Mulching returns fine clippings as fertilizer and holds moisture. Watch for brown patches (fungus/grubs).
Annual meadow-grass (Poa annua) germinates in late summer/early autumn — a pre-emergent applied late August stops it before it establishes. ⚠️ Like all pre-emergents it blocks lawn seed too, so do NOT use it the same autumn you overseed; choose overseeding OR pre-emergent.
Relieve compaction during active growth so the turf recovers fast — late spring into early summer for warm-season grass.
Warm-season turf is a heavy summer feeder — feed nitrogen roughly monthly through the growing season for dense, deep-green growth.
Mow often in summer, at YOUR grass's height: Bermuda 1.5–4 cm and Zoysia 2.5–5 cm mow low, but St. Augustine wants 6–10 cm and Centipede ~4 cm — don't scalp those. At peak growth that can be twice a week; never remove more than 1/3 at once.
Warm-season turf tolerates herbicides during active growth — spot-treat weed escapes. Follow the label; avoid spraying in extreme heat.
Early autumn is the BEST window — warm soil, moist, few weeds.
Along with scarifying, it opens the soil before winter.
The best time to fill in — warm soil aids germination before winter.
Potassium strengthens roots and frost resistance. Do NOT apply nitrogen in late autumn.
A thick layer of leaves smothers grass and breeds fungus — rake or blow regularly.
A bit lower before the grass stops growing — short grass rots less over winter.
A thin layer of fine compost once a year — best right after autumn aeration — builds soil life, improves drainage and feeds the grass slowly. A cheap, organic way to build the soil.
Taper nitrogen ~6 weeks before first frost (late N is frost-tender) and apply potassium for winter hardiness as the lawn heads to dormancy.
Block winter annual weeds (annual meadow-grass) as soil cools to ~21 °C. Skip this if you plan to overseed ryegrass for winter colour — the pre-emergent would block it too.
Optional: overseed perennial ryegrass when soil cools to ~18–21 °C so the lawn stays green over the warm-season grass's winter dormancy. Keep it moist until it germinates; mutually exclusive with the autumn pre-emergent.
Raise the mowing height a notch as growth stops and the lawn browns out for winter — taller dormant turf protects the crowns. Brown is normal and healthy.
Fresh overseed must stay CONSTANTLY moist until it germinates (3–4 weeks) or it dies — this is the single most common overseeding failure. Water lightly 1–2× a day to keep the top 1–2 cm damp; cut back to normal deep watering only once it's up and growing.
New seedlings need phosphorus for root development — not a high-nitrogen or high-potassium feed. Use a starter NPK on the overseeded areas; save any autumn winterizer for established turf only.
Your soil is acidic — lime raises pH so grass can take up nutrients.
Your soil is alkaline — sulfur lowers pH toward the ideal range.
Brown patches can be disease, drought or pet damage. Check moisture and look for matted/ringed grass before treating — the right fix depends on the cause.
Stops the spread of fungal disease (brown patch, dollar spot, red thread). Treat promptly, water in the morning and improve airflow.
Grubs and chinch bugs chew roots and cause spreading dead patches that lift like a carpet. Treat the affected area before it spreads.
Drought-stressed grass (grey-blue, footprints stay) recovers with a deep soak early in the morning — not frequent shallow watering.
Flush pet-urine spots with water, rake out dead grass and reseed the bare area. Keep it moist until it fills in.
Drought or heat stress detected — water deeply early morning to cool roots and prevent dormancy. A single deep soak (30–40 min) beats frequent shallow watering.
Rapid growth detected — mow now to keep height in the top-third rule and prevent the lawn from going to seed. You may need to mow again within a few days.
