An always-available reference of every task the schedule can issue, grouped by phase, season and problem. Each entry carries its plate, the how, the amounts and its sources. A sample follows; the full manual is in the app.
In heat, raise the height to 5–6 cm — taller grass shades the roots and holds moisture.
Raise the deck to 5–6 cm and never take more than a third of the blade in one pass. Repeat every 7–10 days through summer.
Coarse regrade to a gentle, even fall first — no dips that pond water, no bumps the mower will scalp.
Put drainage in before topsoil goes back — retro-fitting it under an established lawn means tearing the lawn up again.
Terracing or a retaining wall stops soil and seed washing off a steep slope before the lawn can hold it.
Remove rubble, stones, and roots, and loosen ground compacted by machinery before anything else.
Haul off rubble, broken concrete and buried waste — new roots can't grow through builder's debris.
Break up compacted soil so roots have room to grow.
Machinery packs the ground hard after building. Rip or dig deep so water and roots can get down.
Grass likes pH 6.0–7.0. Correcting it now is easier than later.
Post-build ground is usually subsoil. Add good screened topsoil so grass has something to grow in.
Sow lengthwise then crosswise for even density, no stripes or patches.
Deep and infrequent in the morning drives roots down. Avoid evenings (moisture = fungus).
Treat crabgrass that got through while it's young — mature plants shrug the herbicide off.
Early autumn is the best window — warm soil, moist, few weeds.
Along with scarifying, it opens the soil before winter.
The best time to fill in — warm soil aids germination before winter.
Wakes the lawn, building density and green color.
