Leveling and regrading the surface
Shape the ground first. Every dip that ponds water and every bump the mower scalps comes from skipping this step.
- When
- In order, while the lawn is being made
- For
- Any lawn
- Rule
- est-groundwork-grading · Hessayon; RHS; Regional
Coarse regrade to a gentle, even fall first — no dips that pond water, no bumps the mower will scalp.
What you are aiming for
A lawn does not need to be dead flat, but it does need an even surface with a gentle fall so rain runs off instead of sitting in hollows. Around buildings the ground should slope away from the walls. A fall of roughly 1–2 cm per meter (about ⅛–¼ in per foot) is enough to shed water without being noticeable.
How to do it
- Mark the high and low spots. A long straight board with a spirit level on top, or string lines between pegs, shows them quickly.
- Move soil from the high spots into the low ones with a shovel and a landscape rake. On large plots a small loader or a hired operator saves days.
- Keep the topsoil separate if you can: strip it, regrade the subsoil, then put the topsoil back as an even layer.
- Let rain or a thorough watering settle the ground, then fill the hollows that appear.
Why it comes first
Coarse grading moves a lot of soil. Doing it after drainage, topsoil or seed means undoing that work. Fine leveling with a rake comes later, just before sowing, and is a separate job.
Next: install drainage where the ground stays wet, and terrace steep slopes.
Comes next
Sources
- D.G. Hessayon — The Lawn Experthessayon
- Royal Horticultural Society — lawn guidancerhs
- Regional practice — continental climate, zone 7regional